Bike Fit Calculator

Stand upright with your back against a wall. Your feet should be approximately 12-15 cms apart and you should be barefooted.

Measure your height and enter it here. cm

Assume the same position as for the previous measurement (height) and measure from the floor to your sternum notch (the little indentation at the top of your ribs and just below your throat). This measurement is used to determine your torso length

Enter your torso length. cm

While standing upright measure the width of your shoulders between the small bumps on the top of each shoulder. This measurement is used to determine your handlebar width.

Enter your shoulder width. cm

This is one of the most critical measurements. While standing upright (feet approx 12-15 cm apart, no shoes) and against a wall place a book or a spirit level between your legs. Pull up firmly to replicate the feel of sitting on a saddle and then make sure the book/level is level before measuring from the ground to the top edge of the book. This is your inseam length and it is used to help determine saddle height. Nb: You should wear your bike knicks for this measurement!

Enter your inseam length. cm

Hold your arm either straight out in front of you or out to the side. Measure from the small bump on top of your shoulder to the middle of your palm. This is your arm length.

Enter your arm length. cm

The correct saddle position (referred to as fore-aft placement or setback) can vary depending on the type of racing you are doing.

Please select the type of racing you usually compete in. Road Criteriums Time Trial Track

Crank length is an important factor in maximising performance while also minimising injuries and knee pain. Based on your measurements we have suggested a crank length for you but you may change it before proceding if it does not match your preferred size.

Please confirm your preferred crank length. 150 mm 155 mm 160 mm 162.5 mm 165 mm 170 mm 172.5 mm 175 mm 180 mm 185 mm

Notes on bike fit

1. The frame size should be selected based on the top tube length rather than seat tube length. This is because it is very easy to modify seat height by several cms without affecting bike handling but changing stem length costs money and stem length affects bike handling. If the frame does not have the same top tube length as recommended you may choose for a slightly longer or shorter stem. However, it is recommended your stem length remain within the 90 - 110mm range. To determine the stem length required based on your chosen frame top tube length simply determine your overall reach by adding the recommended top tube length and stem length, for example a tt length of 55cm and a stem length of 100mm is an overall reach of 65cm. So if you find a frame with a 54cm top tube you would choose an 110mm stem (longer = lazier handling) or if the frame had a 56cm top tube you would choose a 90mm stem (shorter = crisper handling).
2. When assessing your frame options and stem length please remember that overly long or short stems can have a big impact on bike handling. An overly short stem can make a bike feel twitchy while an overly long stem can make a bike feel slow or lack responsiveness.
3. The recommended seat height is a starting point. Exact seat height generally only comes with a bit of trial and error. If your existing seat heigher is more than 2-3 mm different that the one suggested you should change your seat height in phases. Change the height by 2mm every 10 rides until you reach the height recommended. This should allow for sufficient time for you to adapt to the new position without causing injury. You may also need to raise or lower your stem to retain the same amount of handlebar drop.
4. If you have a history of knee pain or you suffer from knee pain after changing your seat height then you need to place some caveats on your seat height. If the pain was in the front of the knee then the seat most likely too low. Gradually raise the seat until the pain disappears. If the pain was at the back of the knee then the seat most likely too high. This generally calls for a lower seat height, however if you have just moved your seat up it may be a lack of flexibility, i.e. you may need to simply adapt to the new seat height. In these cases make even smaller incremental changes, only 1-2mm every 10-15 rides and only after any pain has disappeared.
5. Handlebar width (measured centre to centre) is generally based of shoulder width, however some riders prefer slightly wider bars for better leverage. If possible test ride bars of varying widths before selecting your final handlebar width.
6. Handlebar drop is highly dependant on rider flexibility and personal riding style. When buying a new bike you may wish to start with a lower drop (i.e. higher stem height) and then work your way down. After you find the correct handlebar drop, you can then have your steerer tube cut to the correct length. This is much easier than having to find a riser stem or buy a new fork if your handlebars are too low.
7. Seat setback is governed by riding style and also the UCI technical regulations. Road racers or casual cyclists should opt for a more laid back geometry and have a greater level of setback. Criterium, track and time trial riders generally opt for a more aggressive geometry and have less setback. The calculator applies the UCI 5cm rule when making calculations, therefore even though the ideal setback may be less than 5cm it will not be shown.
8. Crank length can be very subjective and it can also be difficult to find lengths to meet your requirements if you need long or short cranks. In general most bikes are fitted with either 170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm cranks. If you are not able to find a crank in your recommended size you may wish to select the most appropriate of these more common sizes.
9. When selecting a frame for a junior rider it is often best to assess how much they are expected to grow within the next 6-12 months before deciding on a frame size. Generally a frame with a slightly longer top tube (up to 2cm longer) and a shorter stem (80mm) would be the better option as it offers the best mix of bike fit and value for money. Essentially, the junior rider can be set up on a slightly larger bike with a shorter stem without it being overly detrimental to performance. Then as they grow the seat can be raised and a longer stem fitted. This is by far the cheapest solution and if you start with an 80mm stem (any shorter may have a negative affect on handling) you should be able to progress up to a 120mm stem before considering a larger frame.